I would say with my experience buy the 100 gallon tank from tractor supply with no bulkhead and put your own in at the top.(top draw). No offense to gary but i do about 200-300 roofs a year and i use the hell out of that tank and it has been taking a beatin for close to 3 yrs. Spend the money now and you will have less headaches later. FYI- clean the tank out with fresh water once a month that will keep everything clean in the mix.
Also the 100 gallon mix tank will keep you DOT legal.
If you're going to pressure wash too you should be able to draw your water from the bulkhead. I bought the connections to do it this summer but didn't get a chance to use it. Everyone here has city water.
About 140 miles. I have decided to get 2 tanks from Tractor Supply. One roughly 100 gallons and another smaller on for SH in case I need to mix more. I wanna make sure I stay under the legal limit (haha).
About 140 miles. I have decided to get 2 tanks from Tractor Supply. One roughly 100 gallons and another smaller on for SH in case I need to mix more. I wanna make sure I stay under the legal limit (haha).
Thanks again for all the help guys.
Well to be absolutly safe your tank for unmixed SH and your mix tank should not exceede 110 gallons. Dot does not look at the gallons being carried , but the capacity of the tanks total . The concentration of SH is not a factor , Add 10 gallons of SH to 175 gallons of water and you have 175 gallons of SH as far as the DOT is concerned . I reread my hazmzt book for my CDL , and talked with the local DOT officer at the local MVA .I was planning on running larger tanks , but didnt want to limit the trailer to 1 driver with a hazmat endorsement .
Bulkheads will eventually leak,..no doubt about it. I asked my local Tractor Supply if they could order tanks without the bulkhead and they said no,..(although it was a pretty shallow no,..I think she probably really didn't know)
But either way the problem is the seal they use,.not sure what it's made of but it gives up to SH over about a season in my experiences. A more resilient gasket would be a help,..I think a home made one could be made out of something more SH proof.
The temporary "solution" I have found is to pull the bulkhead out and replace it with one of those expandable hole plugs,..just put it in the hole and turn the wingnut and tighten it in. Not a permanent fix,..but the rubber on these is thicker and lasts longer than the factory seal in the bulkhead. And are quickly and easily changed,..and are only about $3-$4 at Lowes.
Hey Mike,..yea I just looked at their site and it is showing the 100 tank without the bulkhead. They just don't have them as regular stock in all stores. But I'm sure they are made available to to all the stores. Thanks for the heads up!
Some tend to over tighten the barb fitting. We use schedule 40 gray pastic fittings and wrap them with teplon tape. Tighten only hand tight. Over tightening will cause the fittings to bottom out and the bulkhead eventually splits along the threads. I have bulkheads that have been in service 5 years or more. And then again I have some that have leaked in as little as 2 yrs.
I keep saying that I am going to make it part of my maintenance to change the out annually.