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I don't think so, it sprays for about 20 seconds and then blows the fuse. The pump runs constantly and never stops, even when the line is full of SH.

Marcus, as far as I can tell, everything has been duplicated. Is there an diagram somewhere that I can view? I couldn't find anything to make sure I wired it correctly.

I also use 30 amp automotive breakers.

The pump continuously runs even when the valve is turned off, and this was not the case previously. Before this issue, it would run until the line was full and then shut off until opening the the ball valve or trigger gun.

There is 1/2" hose all the way around, but when it failed I was testing 3/4" hose from the chemical tank to the pump. However, I was testing it with water, so it was flushed when it originally fried the relay.

It seems as if the pressure switch just isn't doing it's job. I would like to know whether it isn't regulating pressure because of my wiring job, or if it bit the dust at the same time as the relay. I'll learn what the heck I am doing with these pumps if it's the last thing I do!

Phil,

We answer the phone 24/7 for anyone even if you did not buy it from us!

Starting with the basics...

1)  Do you have the CORRECT and ADEQUATE size hoses on the discharge and suction sides of the pump?

Fatboy:  Minimum of 5/8" Hose ID on the Discharge side of the pump, optimal is 3/4" UNLESS you constantly attack multi-story buildings and BIG ones!  MUST use a minimum of a 1" ID Suction hose such as Ag hose which will withstand warmer temps and will not collapse.  Always remember to flood these little pumps that are bringing home the bacon!  They work hard for you.  Do not make the pump pull amps just trying to get chemical into them!!  Remember to keep it under 14' long to prime.

(Basics in Pump Plumbing Principles Indicate that if the inlet port of the pump is 1/2", like the Fatboy and 5850, use a non-collapsible ag type hose that is TWICE the width of the port or quite simply; Use a 1" ID Ag hose on these pumps.)

5850:  Minimum of 5/8" Hose ID on the Discharge side of the pump, UNLESS you constantly attack multi-story buildings and BIG ones such at resorts!  The inlet port is 1/2" so please give that pump some help by using a 1" ID Ag hose no more than 14' to prime.)

Since our Technical Help Line (727-424-6600 ) is on 24/7, we have discovered that the most common cause of pump FAILURE is inadequate hose diameter on the suction side and discharge sides of the pump.  Our customers use a minimum of ½” on the 5850 and 5/8” on the Fatboy and 1” on the suction side of both pumps and we very rarely send out pressure switches.   In fact, we send pressure switches to those whom purchased the pump and plumbed it with the wrong type of hose and/or too small.  Delavan told us to carry a bunch of pressure switches for our customers and we did…………..and they sat for a year!  We can usually tell what has happened if a customer needs a pressure switch or asks about a new relay.....the hose is too small somewhere or there is a restriction somewhere...

2)      Is your pump able to breathe?  Keep your pump out of a box.  We refer to battery box pump systems as 'pump coffins'.   I once witnessed the demise of a poor Delavan.  There was nothing we both could do as the smoke softly rose from the depths of that little black box.  The Delavan pumps are TEFC (Totally Enclosed Fan Cooled) pumps and need only to be kept out of the weather.  Let your pump breathe fresh air.  Battery boxes are for batteries in this business.  Computer fans are for computers.  Keep your system simple and easy to maintain.  Mount it your pump low allowing gravity to work for your pump and under something such as the hose reel.   

3)       Stop using Teflon Tape…….OK……I know you have all heard it before!  Use non-drying pipe dope or non-drying liquid teflon on pump to pipe fittings and medium threadlock on metal to metal fittings.

4)      Use a filter or strainer capable of handling the SH.  Do not use a stainless steel mesh filter on the suction side of the pump.  The stainless steel will corrode and end up in the pump all globbed up with the teflon tape.  LOL!!!  Use a PVC slotted filter that you can make yourself.

5)      Get rid of the hose clamps and polypropylene fittings.  Polypropylene is nice because it will not corrode.  However, Polypropylene fittings and hose barbs are not durable and can’t withstand any sort of abuse.  Polypropylene fittings will split under stress and can’t seem to handle a fall off a single story roof!  When using Polypropylene fittings, one must use those nasty hose clamps.  (I recommend keeping current on your Tetanus Vaccine!).  I have not seen a single hose clamp resist rust at the fastener, have you?  Hose clamps back off and loosen over time.  On the suction side of the pump it may cause priming problems due to cavitation or may prevent you from getting the maximum distance out of your pump.  Instead, use brass hose barbs and have them crimped onto the hose with a hydraulic crimper or hand crimper.  Don’t bother with the stainless steel.  Stainless is beautiful but pricey and will corrode anyway.  If you do not want any corrosion and don’t have access to a crimper, use Schedule 80 PVC hose barbs and fittings.  We carry a very large assortment of Sch 80 PVC fittings. 

6)      Keep your DEEP CYCLE MARINE BATTERY charged.  A battery that is not fully charged or inadequate will mimic pump problems.

7)      Use the correct type of wire crimpers , the right gauge wire, (think…..long life for your pump and putting food on your table), the right connectors, length and type of shrink tubing, switch suitable for outdoor use and inline fuse holder.

Please see the correct type of crimpers in the pic below. 

8)      Ooh it is late!  More to come!

9)  One more thing, RINSE and then RINSE your pump and system again!

-- Edited by Pressure Washer Products on Monday 16th of May 2011 12:31:07 AM