Matthew C Perry General Manager Callahan Pro Wash Professional Exterior Cleaning Services Roof Cleaning, Pressure Washing, Paver Cleaning and Restoration 813-727-5161 callahanprowash.gmail.com
So we took some Bleach Wash and put some on a red shop rag and some wood and then wet it. It actually ate the rag faster than my fresh SH did. This would make sense as it should have 65% free chlorine in it.
Red rag on right is the SH.
I also tested some on a roof today, just waiting for youtube to load the vids.
So we took some Bleach Wash and put some on a red shop rag and some wood and then wet it. It actually ate the rag faster than my fresh SH did. This would make sense as it should have 65% free chlorine in it.
Red rag on right is the SH.
I also tested some on a roof today, just waiting for youtube to load the vids.
Do post the youtube link. I am eager to see the results.
So we took some Bleach Wash and put some on a red shop rag and some wood and then wet it. It actually ate the rag faster than my fresh SH did. This would make sense as it should have 65% free chlorine in it.
Red rag on right is the SH.
I also tested some on a roof today, just waiting for youtube to load the vids.
Do post the youtube link. I am eager to see the results.
Man,..when you guys say 65% available chlorine I can't get CH out of my head. Because I have used it in the past with satisfactory results,..in fact there are threads on here that I started that talk about using it,..and the pros and cons. Just makes me think the catalyst being used is getting it over the hurdles when used alone.
Dichlor is another powdered bleach that I have yet to use. The Australian guy on here had mentioned it in a post and said it was very effective,..but expensive,..about twice that of CH.
Raystown Roof Cleaning Central PA 1-800-236-0322 wrote:
Man,..when you guys say 65% available chlorine I can't get CH out of my head. Because I have used it in the past with satisfactory results,..in fact there are threads on here that I started that talk about using it,..and the pros and cons. Just makes me think the catalyst being used is getting it over the hurdles when used alone.
Dichlor is another powdered bleach that I have yet to use. The Australian guy on here had mentioned it in a post and said it was very effective,..but expensive,..about twice that of CH.
Just wondering is all....
Jeff
Jeff,
Dylithium Chloride would be AWESOME! But like Sodium Percarbonate it has no immediate or instant bleaching reaction. Just turns everything black. I have tried diffrent reactors and agents to get that one to work. Wow it would be awesome!
The green wash helps get a better bleaching result while at a lower % of bleach soloution. The more we tweak the Green Wash (and we are doing that as we speak) the less bleach wash you will have to use.
I may have reduced the Bleach Wash / gallon by 1/3 yesterday in another field test. That is another reason why we arent shipping just yet! I will be in Ft Worth next week to work with the chemical blender a little more on this. We may have all three products in powder form by the end of next week!!!!!
Raystown Roof Cleaning Central PA 1-800-236-0322 wrote:
Man,..when you guys say 65% available chlorine I can't get CH out of my head. Because I have used it in the past with satisfactory results,..in fact there are threads on here that I started that talk about using it,..and the pros and cons. Just makes me think the catalyst being used is getting it over the hurdles when used alone.
Dichlor is another powdered bleach that I have yet to use. The Australian guy on here had mentioned it in a post and said it was very effective,..but expensive,..about twice that of CH.
Just wondering is all....
Jeff
Jeff,
Dylithium Chloride would be AWESOME! But like Sodium Percarbonate it has no immediate or instant bleaching reaction. Just turns everything black. I have tried diffrent reactors and agents to get that one to work. Wow it would be awesome!
The green wash helps get a better bleaching result while at a lower % of bleach soloution. The more we tweak the Green Wash (and we are doing that as we speak) the less bleach wash you will have to use.
I may have reduced the Bleach Wash / gallon by 1/3 yesterday in another field test. That is another reason why we arent shipping just yet! I will be in Ft Worth next week to work with the chemical blender a little more on this. We may have all three products in powder form by the end of next week!!!!!
Thanks,
AC
Keep use posted AC. I have just landed another cedar shake roof and I know i could land alot more but some still question the chemicals used so this could help if effective and cost effective.
Hi Bruce,...I do know that some guys still prefer Sodium hypochlorite when doing wood,...including cedar shakes. Have you ever tried sodium percarbonate? I have used sodium percarbonate on several cedar shake jobs and numerous wood decks and it's way above bleach when it comes to cleaning wood and giving it a natural look instead of a washed out look.
Mix at 8 oz. per gallon and apply at that strength,..then neutralize with oxalic at 8 oz. per gallon downstreamed.
You can't downstream the percarbonate and get satisfactory results,...but the oxalic you can.
Downstreaming Sodium Hydroxide is also a method of doing wood,...and is the way I actually now prefer,..because it can be downsteamed and that makes a big difference in time.
But the percarbonate is a great product to to answer customers' concerns about what you're using.
Note: Sometimes there are still instances where bleach is needed in wood cleaning,...like when the green growth is so heavy that even when removed it leaves a green hue behind,...bleach is good for this,....but overall I've abandoned bleach on wood.
Hi Ed,..yea,...they can both be downstreamed through a washer. Hydroxide is pretty hot stuff though so keep all surrounding vegetation protected or watered down. Keep in mind that when you apply sodium hydroxide to any wood it will darken it considerably,...so neutralizing with oxalic is the key to a natural looking finished product. Other acids can also be used to neutralize,..I just prefer oxalic because of its many uses and it's also a powder. Oxalic is better mixed in hot water,...but it will mix in cold as well,...just slower.
Hydroxide mixes very easily in cold water,...and the water will be hot when it's first mixed.
Just be careful with the runoff from the hydroxide. I've seen some ugly looking black streaked gutters afterwards. or does it just have that effect on painted fir gutters? Not many metal gutters up our way.
Just be careful with the runoff from the hydroxide. I've seen some ugly looking black streaked gutters afterwards. or does it just have that effect on painted fir gutters? Not many metal gutters up our way.
Yes, unless you're comfortable with hydroxide,...I'd suggest the percarbonate method,...you can even boost the percarbonate with hydroxide a little.
I know it will turn copper black,..I personally never had an issue with hydroxide on gutters,..but that doesn't mean it doesn't happen. Any time though hydroxide turns something dark or black,...neutralizing should remedy it,....but,...just be careful,..and as mentioned above watch the runoff and protect and water where needed.
Doesn't the hydroxide burn the hell out of you or is it not so bad when downstreamed??? I have only used it a couple times in a pump sprayer and it burned my hand.
Never mix your hydroxide with warm or hot water. The chemical reaction will quickly heat the already warm/hot water and cause you to rethink this process while laying on a hospital bed. Mixing it in cold water will allow the cold water to absorb the heat. Also, always add the chemical to the water, never add the water to the chemical.