O'k Guys, I'm getting ready to set up my new truck so I wanted to explain my thoughts and see if any of you can see any potential problems.
First the truck is a ford F350 Flatbed. It has two tanks 1) 225 Gallon 2) 125 Love Tank. Fatboy Pump. I am going to plumb the tanks with 3/4" hose into a three bank manifold. From the 3/4" pvc manifold to the pump with 1/2" hose. Then I'm going out of the pump with 1/2" hose to a 3/4" 2 bank manifold. From the two bank manifold, One hose will go to the hose reel and the other will go to the chem tank. I hope this makes sense. The way I figure is I can use valves to switch from fresh water to chem tank. This way i can fill my chem tank with water using my fresh water tank. The third bank on the intake manifold will be for pumping SHC out of my 300 gallon tote.
O'k Guys, I'm getting ready to set up my new truck so I wanted to explain my thoughts and see if any of you can see any potential problems.
First the truck is a ford F350 Flatbed. It has two tanks 1) 225 Gallon 2) 125 Love Tank. Fatboy Pump. I am going to plumb the tanks with 3/4" hose into a three bank manifold. From the 3/4" pvc manifold to the pump with 1/2" hose. Then I'm going out of the pump with 1/2" hose to a 3/4" 2 bank manifold. From the two bank manifold, One hose will go to the hose reel and the other will go to the chem tank. I hope this makes sense. The way I figure is I can use valves to switch from fresh water to chem tank. This way i can fill my chem tank with water using my fresh water tank. The third bank on the intake manifold will be for pumping SHC out of my 300 gallon tote.
Several things get my attention. A 300 gallon SHC tank will get you in trouble with DOT and EPA. Better check your local laws on amount you can haul without a Hazmat sticker (PITA) Unless you are in a rural area, why would you want to carry several hundred gallons of water? It would save you a lot of wear and tear and fuel expense if you used the HO's water on site. On here somewhere there is a post where a guy uses quik connects on his spray hose and his hose reel and NEVER runs SH through his hose reel. That way you don't have to worry about leaks in the future. Just some thoughts!
I am so happy you posted this before you built!!! I have advocated this many times and people continue to FAIL on their rigs thinking they no better... Great Work!!
I did the same thing and my rig is completely different then what i originally posted or intended.... 130 roofs later this season and it has never failed me ...not 1 time!!!!
here are some things for you... The DOT laws are federal, not local (but there may be more stringent local laws on top) 1000lbs max of SH, container can not be large enough to hold more than that (10lb per gallon typical SH). Mix should not be premixed or you must have less than 1000lbs total mix and SH combined. (Most people seem to get away with this anyway) SH tank must have the same label that appears on your barrel (your distributor has these for you) you must carry all MSDS and have the hazard material emergency response info (usually on the MSDS) within arms reach of the driver at all times. (very important, if it is not in arms reach your done!!)
If you want to carry more you need a DOT license and a Placard on your vehicle. Also it should not be necessary in your first year unless you are spontaneously better at business or roof cleaning that the thousands of other people that do this, and really you might be, so if you are you can afford it when the time comes.
Most local police in MD do not even know these laws. I spent 6 hrs. obtaining this info, and eventually found it from the gentleman that trains MD state police on the federal DOT standards. All of this are his words and he is an expert federal DOT trainer so if you think any of this is wrong just because some have been not following any of this for years and get away with it, it is only because most cops don't know the federal DOT laws for your mix tanks.
I do not carry water or care what is in it, I have a well so whatever and it works, that brown stuff will rinse off just watch out for high iron wells, and even these have given me no trouble, your slightly weakened, (and many times unnoticeable so) mix from hard water or whatever is not worth correcting through the wear and tear on your truck.
I believe the 300 gallon tote is stationary at your shop?? this is a good idea but if it is a used tote, I wouldn't use it. They got rid of it because they know it is old and going to fail soon. Maybe use it for a water tank for rinsing or pressure washing to be filled on site or used as an emergency water carrying device for jobs that do not have water on them Also if it has a valve on the bottom and it fails you will lose out big time and potentially harm neighbors and/or face a big fine. Also again legally you need a containment tank under that tank. you can build it from concrete and plastic sheeting. Definitely check with your town/city and see how much or if you can store it at all on your property.
Your manifold is the right idea, I have 2 inlets and 3 valved outlets on my AODD pump. One draws from the love tank, and one is a "multi tap in" for drawing SH into my tank from my shop reservoir, or moving SH into the mix (or whatever else i want to use it for hence the "multi tap in"). One goes out to the mix tank, one to the hose, and one to the SH tank. this configuration allows you to circulate your mix in the mix tank as well!!!!
With that truck you need to legally have a federal DOT number as well. this is easy to acquire and is free. You will need a physical every 2 years and answer some questions. This is due to the weight capacity of your vehicle, and truck capable of over 10,000 gross. You can apply for your DOT# here: LINK TO DOT #
Your hose would serve you better if it was 5/8" but if you already have the hose than you will still be fine, just upgrade later if you want to or when you need to. 3/4 draw tubes are fine as well, if your pump is having pressure issues, make sure your draw tubes are not sucking air.
And just another note, I run an F-150- with a 800lb trailer package,with a PW and one 55 gallon mix tank, SH sits in a 55 in the bed, total weight about 2000lbs at most!!....first rule of business SIMPLICITY!! You need profits not cool rigs!!!
I will be running an F250 flat bed set up very similar to AC mallards residential rigs. He does more roof cleaning than any one else on here so pay attention to the tidbits of info he drops, they are priceless!!
This rig allows me and a helper to do up to 3 jobs a day or one big one with high MPG and low wear and tear, my biggest risk is the SH tank in the bed getting SH on my leaf springs and brake lines, check these things periodiccly on your truck as well.
I'll let some other pro's take it from here.......
-- Edited by Baltimore MD Roof Cleaning 410-482-4367 on Thursday 17th of December 2009 11:19:23 PM
Gary, you mis read My chemical tank is only 125 gallons. My water tank is 225 and I don't ever keep it filled all the way. I like to have it in case I get into a subdivision and do three or four houses in a day. Thanks for your input.
Great info Bill, Yes I buy SHC in 300 gallon totes and thats how it's delivered. It stays at my shop. My hoses are already 5/8". I was referring to the hose from my pump to manifold is 1/2 because that's the size of the pump inlet and outlet. I have three intakes. 1) puts shc in my chemical tank. 2) Pulls from my water tank and 3) pulls from chemical tank. I must be missing something because I'm only going to have to out. 1( to my hose reel and one to chem tank for mixing. Great info Bill. Let me know if I'm missing something Thanks
Bill, Just went back through your post and re read it. Why do you have a line from pump to shc tank? This is raw shc correct? How much raw shc do you carry. THANKS
I carry 55 gallons of fresh SHC and i use the out to the SHC tank in the truck in order to fill it from the barrels in my shop. I suggest you carry 55-75gallons and that should keep you going all day. If you empty that tank you got paid real good!!
I use 3/4 pipe even though my pump is 3/8 and my draw tubes are actually 1&1/8" Pvc with 1&1/8" tubing. I like the girth of a 3/4 valve compared to a 1/2 valve, just feels more solid. Look out for some valves will get stiff after some love runs through them for a month, just switch out to another brand. Mine are the Muller threaded 3/4. They have a nut shape on each end for a wrench. I changed these out from a different valve who's manufacturer name I can't recall, that were getting stiff.
Heyward ball valves are the best for SH use. They are vented, to resist salt buli up. It might be hayward instead of heyward, google it, they are well worth seeking out.
Plumb your Fatboy so it will go into bypass as the pressure builds. You could go up to a 3/4" chemical hose and turn it into a water supply hose if you ever go to an air diaphragm system. Are you drawing from the top? You could use a short length of well point pipe to make a filter for your chem tank. Use a 1" slip by 3/4" threaded coupler to attach it to your 3/4" draw hose at the top of your tank. Should you want a pic, just send me an email. We prefer to use ag hose on the suction side of the pump. Ideally, it should be twice the diameter of your discharge side. However, it is not necessary using the Fatboy.
Excellent post and very informative. I've only read through this once but will disect it more in future reading. I would suggest that everybody reads this and has a total understanding of the haz mat laws. Thanks again
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