Ok, as you know I keep bring up different chemicals, why because I believe there is a safer way to do things, I just have to find it.
I would like to list a few store bought chemicals that you may wish to look up the msds of and look at what is in them, they are all non toxic-ish and safe-ish
1. Simple green Lime & scale remover (this stuff rocks) and is safe ( Urea hydrochloride) http://householdproducts.nlm.nih.gov/cgi-bin/household/brands?tbl=brands&id=19006017 2. Green works natural bathroom cleaner (contains glycolic acid) I like it 3. Vanish napisan baby care (WTF) basically peroxide but with activators and all the good stuff in it (it's promising) 4. your Ammoxy lo stuff or similar made from (coconut oil) fatty acid surfactant, coconut oil is used in surfactants, fungicides and herbicides and is safe as houses 5. Urea, buy if from your local hardware store, no it dose not smell, it has no odour and can be transformed into some interesting stuff 6. buy some of each and mix it together, I have done this and the results are very interesting
Yes I am a crazy little Aussie guy, but a few nuts help the squirrels keep the wheels turning.
Got some samples of Twin Oxide, hmmm if it was stronger it could be alright but it is supplied as a 0.3% (3,000 ppm) solution and as we are use to working with a chemical supplied at 125,000 ppm it seems a bit weak in comparison
Ok, as you know I keep bring up different chemicals, why because I believe there is a safer way to do things, I just have to find it.
I would like to list a few store bought chemicals that you may wish to look up the msds of and look at what is in them, they are all non toxic-ish and safe-ish
1. Simple green Lime & scale remover (this stuff rocks) and is safe ( Urea hydrochloride) http://householdproducts.nlm.nih.gov/cgi-bin/household/brands?tbl=brands&id=19006017 2. Green works natural bathroom cleaner (contains glycolic acid) I like it 3. Vanish napisan baby care (WTF) basically peroxide but with activators and all the good stuff in it (it's promising) 4. your Ammoxy lo stuff or similar made from (coconut oil) fatty acid surfactant, coconut oil is used in surfactants, fungicides and herbicides and is safe as houses 5. Urea, buy if from your local hardware store, no it dose not smell, it has no odour and can be transformed into some interesting stuff 6. buy some of each and mix it together, I have done this and the results are very interesting
Yes I am a crazy little Aussie guy, but a few nuts help the squirrels keep the wheels turning.
Got some samples of Twin Oxide, hmmm if it was stronger it could be alright but it is supplied as a 0.3% (3,000 ppm) solution and as we are use to working with a chemical supplied at 125,000 ppm it seems a bit weak in comparison
Its that chlorine dioxide stuff we talked about on here several months ago. I also have some samples coming, should be here next week. I'll keep you posted.
Martin, I applaude your tenacity on this research. I just want to throw you some ideas and reminders. Manufacturers would have to approve that a new mkx won't harm the shingles as that is a major selling point we use here in the US. As far as tile roofs go this may not be as important. Also all of these and really any chemical is dangerous in larve concentration. And remember what we use now actually kills the algae, moss and lichens. Sorry for spell errors, I am using my phone. Please this is not meant to discourage your efforts, just some facts to keep in mind. I always enjoy reading your ideas and research.
Part A; contains Sodium Chlorite cas 77758-19-2 and additives Part B; contains Sodium Bisfulate Monohydrate cas 7681-38-1
mix the two together and get a green colored concentrate liquid of 3,000 ppm Chlorine Dioxide CLO2 you are then suppose to dilute it down to use (down to 1- 200ppm) but even at full strength when you spray it on some mold it takes ages for the mold to discolour which I find strange due to the fact that Chlorine dioxide is said to have about 3 times the oxidizing power of chlorine, one would have expected a quicker result.
mold, fungus, plants & humans can only survive in a very narrow PH range, too alkaline they/we die, too acid they/we die, to kill the mold is not a real problem,change the PH beyond it's survival window it dies, to remove it without pressure or scrubbing is the problem, SH bleaches & kills the mold (can not see it so it must be gone) giving the appearance of "clean" the real trick is how do you "remove" the dead mold, dirt, algae, fungus with out scrubbing or pressure?????????????????
this is where surfactants (and the other products I mentioned) come into play??? what is powerful enough to "lift and carry" away all the dead mold, fungus, algae, DIRT, with just a gentle rinse or rain??? here my friends is the real question.
Thats cool Martin. I thought what we already used allowed the stuff to rinse off the roof from the rain. Maybe what you have there is thicker. Also we don't have any mold on the roofs here in MD, just Algae. I look forward to seeing more results from these surfacant combinations.
Bob jr. don't be in such a hurry to unload you Sodium percarbonate,
Sodium percarbonate is powered Hydrogen peroxide, but these products in there basic form need heat to release thier oxygen, 60 deg celcius or more, unless you add a cold water/low temperature activator to them (TAED) mixing sodium percarbonate in cold water dose not release the oxygen that is needed to clean and bleach (the oxygen is locked up) , products like napisan have activators in it that release the oxygen (it's bleaching / cleaning power) at low temperatures
http://www.lenntech.com/processes/disinfection/chemical/disinfectants-hydrogen-peroxide.htm if you look at the table half way down the page you can see peroxide has more oxidation potential then chlorine, even more then Chlorine dioxide, it just has to be released to allow it to work. I did see a product that is added to sodium percarbonate claiming to increase the oxygen potential x 10 fold (may of even been the urea stuff, can not remember now) Urea peroxide (hydrogen peroxide mixed with urea) is a very powerful bleaching and sanitizing agent. peroxide is a SAFE chemical.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carbamide_peroxide also whitens your teeth
Hydrogen peroxide / sodium percarbonate strips / neutralizes chlorine from / in water I read some where that if you spray some sodium percarbonate along the edge of the roof before you start spraying SH that as the SH runs off the roof and over the percarbonate that it neutralizes the SH making the run off safe for plants???
Bob jr. don't be in such a hurry to unload you Sodium percarbonate,
Sodium percarbonate is powered Hydrogen peroxide, but these products in there basic form need heat to release thier oxygen, 60 deg celcius or more, unless you add a cold water/low temperature activator to them (TAED) mixing sodium percarbonate in cold water dose not release the oxygen that is needed to clean and bleach (the oxygen is locked up) , products like napisan have activators in it that release the oxygen (it's bleaching / cleaning power) at low temperatures
http://www.lenntech.com/processes/disinfection/chemical/disinfectants-hydrogen-peroxide.htm if you look at the table half way down the page you can see peroxide has more oxidation potential then chlorine, even more then Chlorine dioxide, it just has to be released to allow it to work. I did see a product that is added to sodium percarbonate claiming to increase the oxygen potential x 10 fold (may of even been the urea stuff, can not remember now) Urea peroxide (hydrogen peroxide mixed with urea) is a very powerful bleaching and sanitizing agent. peroxide is a SAFE chemical.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carbamide_peroxide also whitens your teeth
Hydrogen peroxide / sodium percarbonate strips / neutralizes chlorine from / in water I read some where that if you spray some sodium percarbonate along the edge of the roof before you start spraying SH that as the SH runs off the roof and over the percarbonate that it neutralizes the SH making the run off safe for plants???
this is where surfactants (and the other products I mentioned) come into play??? what is powerful enough to "lift and carry" away all the dead mold, fungus, algae, DIRT, with just a gentle rinse or rain??? here my friends is the real question.
surfactants introduce a state of tension that in effect reduces the bond the matter has to a surface allowing it to wash away.
Your sodium precarb is exactly what should be used for cleaning decks. Sh is too harsh for wood so you may want to save the sp for deck washing. It does not worl on roofs without the help of a pressurized rinse which will void the warrenty on asphalt shingles.